Shanghai Expo: Q&A with Eduardo Vargas
April 16th, 2010
I recently interviewed Peruvian chef and restaurateur Eduardo Vargas for an upcoming story in China Economic Review magazine about food at this year’s Shanghai Expo. Vargas has lived in Shanghai since 2002 and launched a number of restaurants around the city with lots more planned. One of Vargas’ upcoming projects is that he will run the Peruvian Kitchen restaurant at Peru’s pavilion for the Shanghai Expo. I only used a few brief quotes from Vargas for the story, but the full Q&A transcript is fairly interesting.
Q: What do you have planned for the Peruvian pavilion?
A: The restaurant will be a representation of the culinary traditions in Peru now. Peru is now the most trendy, most fashionable food in Latin America at the present moment. What the Spanish are in Europe, the Peruvians now are in Latin America. In Spain, you have many famous chefs doing modern cuisine, and there is a similar situation in Peru in Latin America. All the winners of best restaurants of the year in Latin America for the last three or four years have been Peruvian restaurants. Peru has very rich influences from Africa, from China, from Japan, from Europe, from the Andes. The result is very interesting food. We have a huge coast, so we have a lot of seafood. So, a lot of food is based on that. So, the food we’re going to serve at the Expo is a combination of that. We’re starting with our national dish, ceviche.
Q: Are you planning on serving all the classic Peruvian dishes like ceviche, causa, lomo saltado, anticuchos?
A: Yes and no. We will use Peruvian ingredients, Peruvian flavors and Peruvian techniques, but served in a contemporary way. So, we will use rojoto or ajia marillo like before, but maybe we will make a foam from it. We will do a causa, but will add a contemporary twist on it. We will present it as it would be in a contemporary restaurant in Peru. In a trendy restaurant in Peru, you don’t eat what mama and papa cooked 20 years ago. I’m bringing over five young star chefs from Lima to Shanghai in the next two weeks, all Cordon Bleu-trained and who have been working with the best chefs in Peru. I went to Peru to handpick them. My good friend (well-known chef and restaurateur) Gaston Acurio introduced me to two young chefs from his restaurant Astrid & Gaston. (This is possible because) in Peru, chefs are very united, and we have a common goal, to promote Peruvian cuisine, to make it as well-known as Mexican food around the world. We believe our food is better than Mexican, but unfortunately Mexican food is more wide-spread, everybody knows it. The only way to do that is to help each other to promote where ever we can, and the Expo is a perfect opportunity.
I had a chance to bring these young chefs over to China and work for me for a couple years. They will live in China, and we will eventually have five-star chefs from Peru working in Shanghai for awhile.
Q: So, the five chefs will come for the Expo and stay in China afterward?
A: Yes, they’ll stay for a couple years. I want to use them as much as I can.
Q: Are you making changes to the menu to adapt to Chinese tastes or the market?
A: No, not really. At the Expo, I believe each countries’ restaurants want to demonstrate what happens and how food is from their home. Therefore, our food will be authentic. We have many dishes in Peru that are influenced from Chinese dishes in the past. Lomo Saltado is basically a stir fry of beef that Chinese brought with them to Peru 100 years ago and then added some Peruvian ingredients. Now it’s a classic Peruvian dish. Another dish is a sort of stir fried rice using Peruvian chilies with it and a lot of seafood. We’re going to make this fried rice Peruvian style. I know it’s going to be acceptable to the local market.
Q: Are you sourcing ingredients from China or importing from Peru?
A: The main ingredients are coming from China. We’re importing about 3,000 kilos of chiles, the corn, the potatoes and some other important ingredients. The meat and the vegetables are all coming from China.
Q: Are the logistics difficult? Have you had issues with poor quality on the China side?
A: I’m doing my own importing. I flew to Peru, found the suppliers and bought them and now it’s in the boat. I already have a few restaurants in China and already work with suppliers, so it’s all right. Today, the situation is much better than a few years ago. Now, the standards of products in China are now at a standard level.
Q: Is setting up a temporary restaurant much different than setting up a permanent restaurant?
A: If I hadn’t previously opened restaurants in Shanghai, then I would have big troubles. But now, I have everything. I already know how to set up places. I don’t have problems because I already have years doing this in China, but I believe I believe a lot of restauranteurs coming to China for the first time are having a hard time. I’ve been receieving phone calls from the other pavilions asking me to take over their pavilion restaurants. But I won’t do it because there are too many regulations for the Expo. So, we’ll do the Peruvian pavilion and that’s it.
Image: Shmag.cn


First off, apologies for the major drop-off in posting on DH lately, things should pick up again in the fall when I’m more settled in my new home in Beijing. Nevertheless…